1970 Penny Value: No Mint Mark, D, S and Small Date Checks

How much is a 1970 penny worth?

Which coin details should I compare?

How do the issues and values compare?

What do no mint mark, D and S mean?

Read the small letter below the date before comparing date sizes. An ordinary Philadelphia 1970 cent has no mint mark. D indicates Denver and S indicates San Francisco. The familiar Small Date / Large Date comparison in this guide concerns the 1970-S issue; it does not turn every Philadelphia or Denver coin with a small-looking date into that variety.

These are Lincoln Memorial cents. Victor David Brenner’s Lincoln portrait appears on the front and Frank Gasparro’s Memorial reverse on the back. The series used the Memorial from 1959 through 2008. A normal 1970 cent weighs approximately 3.11 grams, measures 19 millimeters and has a plain edge. Its copper alloy predates the copper-plated zinc construction used for most later cents. For the broader design sequence, see the Lincoln Memorial penny guide.

How do I identify the 1970-S Small Date?

Compare the numerals at the same angle and magnification. The Small Date is often called High 7 because the top of the 7 aligns more closely with the neighboring digits. Weaker LIBERTY can support the attribution, but worn lettering alone is insufficient. Use the date first and the lettering as a cross-check.

Both Small Date and Large Date occur as circulation strikes and Proofs. A date variety is a repeatable die feature; it is not an accidental second strike. A Proof label describes manufacture rather than a guarantee that a coin is a valuable error.

What makes the Large Date different?

The Large Date is called Low 7 because the top of that digit sits lower. It normally has stronger LIBERTY than the Small Date. Photographic enlargement can make any date appear large, so compare relative numeral alignment rather than the size of a picture on your screen.

A weak strike, abrasion or an out-of-focus photograph may hide the useful details. If the top of the 7 cannot be read, keep the attribution open. Do not clean the date or rub LIBERTY to make the comparison easier.

Which prices are useful, and which are exceptional?

The following figures are deliberately labeled by date and price type. The 2020 guide figures provide historical grade context, not a refreshed 2026 retail quote. The auction example concerns an unusually well-preserved Red coin. An ordinary circulated cent should not inherit either a gem price or a Proof price.

How do color, grade and doubled dies change the comparison?

Brown (BN), Red-Brown (RB) and Red (RD) are separate color designations used for copper coins. Red does not simply mean that a coin looks orange under warm lighting, and a cleaned bright coin is not equivalent to an original Red specimen. Proof grades use PR; Mint State circulation strikes use MS. Cameo and Deep Cameo describe contrast on qualifying Proofs. Keep all of these details with the price.

A doubled die obverse (DDO) needs specific doubled-design diagnostics. Small Date alone does not establish DDO, and flat machine doubling is a different effect. The pictured penny error and variety list is a better starting point for attributed doubling than a seller’s generic “rare 1970 penny” caption. For the adjacent major variety, compare 1969 penny values and the 1969-S doubled die.

A large recorded price can reflect a highly selective grade, an unusual error or an old competitive auction. Before sending a common cent for grading, compare several recent transactions for the exact issue and weigh the likely premium against examination and selling costs. The coin grading scale explains preservation without turning a photograph into a certified grade.

How can I check my coin in three steps?

1. 01Read 1970 and the mint-mark area in neutral light. Photograph both sides and the edge; record approximately 3.11 g and 19 mm as normal specifications, allowing for wear and measurement uncertainty.
2. 02For an S-mint cent, compare the top of the 7 with the other date digits and then examine LIBERTY. Establish circulation strike or Proof separately; neither brightness nor weak lettering alone decides the issue.
3. 03Describe wear, color and any damage before pricing. Match manufacture, variety, grade and color to comparable sales. Preserve a credible candidate uncleaned and use specialist attribution for uncertain doubled dies.

For more illustrated mint-error comparisons, explore the coin errors and varieties guides.

What should I remember before pricing?

What else do collectors ask?

Which references support this guide?